now Cerberus and Charon, you have to seek out the balm of the early morning, or bob in the sea. But first you have to get down onto a beach, through the hogweed fields of parasols and deck chairs. If I went south again I’d chase the parks and wilderness to be by water with no crowds. After Puglia a few days out in a Roman suburb, one euro coin for an espress and a bus ride in to rumble by the Colosseum. What a city to get lost in. And no glance of the Ionian, other than the docks at Taranto. I’ll stare back on it when I make it out to Corfu and along the coast. Journeys like roads, always another to set out on.