We were alone…

at the museum, watching the clouds roll in low and the rain hazard the traffic. Driving into the centre, I was thinking of Welles and his last noir, The Trial, guys in trench coats and pork pie hats waiting in doorstep shadows, midnight train rides and From Russia with Love. We couldn’t find our apartment so made a call and our host told me to wait on a street corner until she arrived. How will she know me, I wondered? Should I text and say I’m the man with the green bag, or just smile at the way you get everything you imagine you want in this life, this Zagreb mystery rendezvous, but always with unseen shifts in the staging.

zagreb

Meet me in Zagreb…

we’ll get lost on the dead end cobbles until we find an early-hours bar. Talk old times over a Tomislav and some island wine.

car

A writer’s hut…

should be moated and drawbridged, where possible. Or is this idea of separateness from the world in lonely struggle an old-fashioned one? Perhaps the great books and characters to come will grow out of shared office spaces, start-up meeting rooms and self-described “fiction packagers”? But I have my doubts.

hut

Vote too close to call…

thought the barman. But it’s good either way. More people, that’s what it’ll bring with it. And we need them. No jobs and too many small roads up here.

I didn’t tire of the emptiness.

road

Will that light…

warn you away, or draw you out further, down yet lonelier roads?

star

 

After the wroth…

an afternoon’s sloth. I’m not much for casting, when the salmon are fasting.

sloth

 

 

There’s no guarantee…

you’ll even be allowed to land on the peninsula. We drove up for two hours by the three lochs, no promise they’d let us in. So it goes with all plans and projections, the dice can roll against you any time you stroll out. But no venture, no true reward.

sign

It’s no easy road…

to Cape Wrath. After the ferry crossing from Durness it’s still an eleven mile clattering ride on a broken track through the firing grounds, with the heather on all sides sown with mortar shells and ghost soldier boy curses. White slabs hidden in the peat banks count down the distance, and you see the light tower after a last, grinding contour crawl. I watched the clouds curl over the hills and thought how mariners must have caught their breath when they first spotted these black and dripping cliffs. Cape confluence of wild oceans makes all comers tremble.

light

Caledonia bound…

to step the rivers and watch a wild salmon flash by. And I’ll ask the ghillies – discreetly – how they might be minded to quit or keep to the union. For all the rumoured public disconnect with politics, it’s hard to recall a time when there was more at stake behind the ballot curtain.

flag

I’d take the overland…

up to Olympia, walk across to Dean’s flat in Brook Green. He was a saxophonist friend of a friend. We’d meet to play chess, we didn’t talk much. We’d sit in the courtyard off his kitchen and drink Lavazza from little white cups his wife would bring out to us and listen to Sonny Rollins. And get lost in the games. There’s not much better than that. Good things like chess endure. I’d thought those afternoons were gone and forgotten but I remembered Dean this afternoon, sitting here rooftop-gazing, I remember the games. And I can still see a move, with my pawn sitting on the seventh row. It’s taken me twenty-five years to work out what I wanted to say to Dean about that move. I wanted to say: “now Dean, take a look at this pawn, only one leap away from shape-shifting, queenly greatness. This lowly foot soldier has crossed the board and won the right to become anything it wants in the chess world, and all by virtue of its own grit and gumption. It had no bishop graces to start with, no rookish solidity, no knightly flair. But it’s endured and now stands poised to snatch the game. This is you, Dean, if you can only keep blowing your horn, finally owning the game. We’re all players on the same board and the greatest, coolest, most universe-popping piece of them all is this humble, transcendent pawn.”

And Dean would have looked up from the ebony and ash squares and stared me in the eye and growled, so shut up and play.

pawn